ETI Foundation member Seasalt graduates to full membership

Seasalt is a fashion and lifestyle brand that makes clothes and accessories woven with stories of Cornwall. The business started on a wet August day in 1981, when the Chadwick family went into a little workwear shop in Penzance to find a waterproof coat, and ended up buying the whole store.

The business is still owned by the Chadwicks, and the principle of treating customers, suppliers and employees with respect is as relevant today as it was 40 years ago. 

Seasalt has just graduated from foundation to full membership of the ETI. The company is based in Falmouth in Cornwall, a few miles from the original shop in Penzance, but it now manufactures clothes – and sells them – around the world.   From those humble beginnings in 1981, Seasalt now sells online in more than 156 countries, in 71 stores across the UK & Ireland and via trusted wholesale and marketplace partners. 

Maintaining a solid ethical trade strategy through the support of ETI and its wider community is a key part of Seasalt achieving further international growth.

Graduation aims

After more than two years as foundation members, Seasalt has become a full member of ETI. The company views the graduation as a reflection of its commitment to ensuring the highest standards of ethics and respect for workers’ rights throughout its supply chain.

The ETI Base Code has always been part of Seasalt’s contract with suppliers and, as the business has grown, it has taken on more responsibility to ensure its supply chain is delivering all the commitments in the Base Code. 

Lucy Panniers, Seasalt’s director of technical and product compliance and ethics, says: “ETI is like a compass for us, it keeps us on track. It shows the best practice we can have in our business and verifies the top line business decisions we make.

“We don’t only make those decisions because we’re members of ETI. We make the decisions because we’re a good business. But being able to get to the full memberships stage means we do things in the right way. It’s external validation of our business practices.”

"ETI is like a compass for us, it keeps us on track. It shows the best practice we can have in our business and verifies the top line business decisions we make."

Long-term supplier relationships

Seasalt sources its products from all over the world. Many of its manufacturing partners have been with the company since it began its expansion in the mid 2000s.  All Tier 1 suppliers have been mapped and Seasalt has supported all suppliers in their ethical trade activities through open dialogue.  Having long-term relationships with suppliers is key to building trust and working together as part of the wider business community and allows open discussion in relation to global issues.  It enables Seasalt to "look beyond the audit" and conduct human rights due diligence and to risk assess. 

Having long-term relationships with suppliers is key to building trust and working together as part of the wider business community and allows open discussion in relation to global issues.  It enables Seasalt to "look beyond the audit" and conduct human rights due diligence and to risk assess. 

One supplier to have grown in tandem with Seasalt is Bulgaria’s JORG. An initial order of 2,000 pairs of socks has now increased to 125,000 a year, made using sustainable fabrics such as organic cotton and bamboo derived viscose. Both businesses are family-owned and are committed to making high-quality products to the best ethical standards. JORG has been awarded the highest grade for its ethical standards by independent auditors and runs on 100% renewable energy.  

All new suppliers are assessed for ethical trade commitments and social compliance before onboarding and with a view to work together for the long-term, to build that all important working relationship and level of trust.

Working through Covid-19

Those long-term relationships have proved essential during the Covid-19 crisis. Seasalt’s buying and sourcing teams have been in frequent contact with suppliers from the start of the pandemic, ensuring all Tier 1 suppliers are secure financially and are able to pay their workers. No discounts have been demanded, nor have deferred payments been requested.   The ETI’s Enhanced Expectations Survey was invaluable as it provided a framework and excellent resources to share with the supply chain to support them in the challenges presented by the pandemic.

Lucy Panniers explains: “As a business, there was the decision at the very beginning of the outbreak to do the right thing. A lot of brands pulled out of orders and didn’t pay for stuff that had often already been made. We didn’t do that. We made sure all our suppliers were paid for finished goods and ensured there were no incomplete orders outstanding.”

Working with ETI

Seasalt hopes becoming a full member of ETI will increase its visibility and involvement in the organisation – although its input was still substantial as foundation members. In particular, the company values the ability to work together with ETI, other corporate members, Trade Unions and NGOs to tackle the biggest issues facing workers around the world.

“As a business, there was the decision at the very beginning of the outbreak to do the right thing. A lot of brands pulled out of orders and didn’t pay for stuff that had often already been made. We didn’t do that. We made sure all our suppliers were paid for finished goods and ensured there were no incomplete orders outstanding. "

“We talk with other members of the community about how to approach issues,” says Lucy Panniers. “It’s incredibly valuable to not be a lone voice. To be able to partner on some of those really big issues means you can make a difference. Seasalt has strong buy-in at board level and raising awareness of key human rights at work issues with ethical issues incorporated into the business risk register.”